World Cup boulders

World Cup boulders

Postby toivo » Sat Sep 29, 2018 4:45 pm

observations as the sport makes its transition to the Olympics:

the boulder problems set for World Cup competition no longer attempt to be like the real thing on rock.

if everyone is so strong, then to sort the field they set these low percentage, insecure balance moves. we have arrived at the acme age of bouldering, victory by slabdyno. witness the circus trick.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby trashman » Wed Oct 03, 2018 5:05 pm

*old man rant time*

More importantly, they’re wasting an entire wall of my gym with them at the moment. Sure, they’re fun for the first 10 min, but that’s 2 problems taking up 25% of the bouldering area.

2.5 blocks from a modern gym and I’m considering tearing out the rest of my yard for a giant home wall just so I don’t have to deal w this and other headaches caused by the youth team(yeah, let’s have all three teams practice at 5:30 on week nights!).
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby toivo » Sun Oct 07, 2018 1:52 pm

cool that the kids are climbing anyways.

these problems do take up a lot of space on the wall. kinaesthetic awareness requires movement over space. the tipping point will be when outdoor climbing is no longer ideal training for comps.

put your home walls out of doors and you'll climb on them more.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby Lox » Sun Oct 07, 2018 4:34 pm

the other view is... when are we going to see more of these kind of problems outside?

i mean, it's probably not going to happen on your classic limestone roof, glacial erratic or 3.5m-high, sightly overhung cliffband, but i can see in places where you have dense bolders, jumbles and a high volume of stone... we might see people running sideways across a boulderface and then launching for an improbable feature.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby zirc » Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:24 pm

the parkour evolution will hopefully complete soon and then branch off to it's own distinct practice, and real climbing aka boldering can be redicsovered like an old fa.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby AlwaysLimping » Mon Oct 08, 2018 6:11 pm

Lox wrote:the other view is... when are we going to see more of these kind of problems outside?

i mean, it's probably not going to happen on your classic limestone roof, glacial erratic or 3.5m-high, sightly overhung cliffband, but i can see in places where you have dense bolders, jumbles and a high volume of stone... we might see people running sideways across a boulderface and then launching for an improbable feature.


Doesnt j-tree have a special rating system for this fayg0try
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby toivo » Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:33 pm

a blended outdoors option would be to put foot jibs on trees, and jump for features from there. the future could be crazier.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby toivo » Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:39 pm

or we bring in the pad-stacking category for the Olympics.

the rock at Ignace Ontario, just off the TransCanada, is really good granite, and you can camp in the boulders, or at a park down the highway to Silverdollar:



very few holds means a lot of jumpstarts.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby toivo » Wed Oct 10, 2018 2:26 pm

does anyone actually speed climb? asking for a friend.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby Lox » Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:16 pm

That one guy in that one video did.

MASTER OF STONE.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby Lox » Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:17 pm

AlwaysLimping wrote:Doesnt j-tree have a special rating system for this fayg0try


Someone should go there and ask them.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby toivo » Wed Oct 17, 2018 4:50 pm

Lox wrote:That one guy in that one video did.

MASTER OF STONE.


free solo speed climbing is indeed a legitimate endeavour. but in this case, let's call this new component of Olympic sport what it is- top-roping.

there has to be something real and essential at stake, not necessarily risk of death or dismemberment, but some sense of reality.
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Re: World Cup boulders

Postby mountainz » Sat Oct 20, 2018 10:25 pm

Obe double-kick.
V7 off the couch / Wipe the chip grease on her blouse.
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